The finishing (well almost – the vent fan still needs to be installed) work on the electrical service was completed. Fabricated the “control panel” that takes the place of the OEM DC converter) and wired the panel up to all the loose ends dangling in the utility closet under the galley. Tedious but mostly without wrinkles. One problem found dealing with how the dimmer for the ceiling lights is wired was corrected. Everything tests ok, as far as can be tested with no water to pump, and no vent fan to vent. Would have liked to come up with a sexy way to label the panel switches but nothing was ever identified to be both cheap and sexy. Oh well, 4 switches, one dimmer knob and one push button shouldn’t be too hard to remember what does what. The finished product, along with views of the utility closet.

One note dealing with the light switches (fore, mid, and aft sections) – the switch row across the top. They have an indicator LED in them that can be wired to be switched with the load, or ON all the time. I chose On all the time thinking that the ceiling lights themselves are the indicators and the blue glow of the switches would be helpful ion a dark camper.

The second row: USB double port, water pump switch, lights dimmer. The water pump has a pressure switch that shuts off the pump after the pump’s output line is under pressure. This means that just turning on the faucet should cause water to flow without having to turn on any other switches. However… a push button was added to the circuitry *will be installed under the sink on the upper galley cabinet) to bypass the pump’s pressure switch, forcing the pump to run at any time.

Third row: The push button turns on the volt/ammeter next to it. The meter monitors battery voltage and current draw from the battery to the camper. Both of those should provide a decent idea of battery condition and how much of the battery is being used up by whatever is on in the camper – lights, vent fan, furnace fan, USB…